Happy Days

Trading since 1989 on the Amsteldijk, the road running along the Amstel through the Rivierenbuurt — a quiet, largely residential stretch of Zuid a short walk from Amstelstation. Tourists rarely get this far south, which is the appeal.

The shop is bigger inside than the frontage suggests: a large space beside the counter, and a second smoking room downstairs with seating, a pool table, a football table, an arcade machine and TVs showing whatever match is on. Free Wi-Fi and a computer for customers. A DJ plays on Thursday evenings. It's built for staying, not for buying and leaving.

Edibles are the standout. Happy Days makes its own — Amsterdam Edible Collection — with genuine brownies rather than the sweet bread sold nearer the center, made fresh daily. They took joint first place with Bagheera in the Unity Cup edibles category.

The flower menu rotates, with Kush and Crystal as regular fixtures, alongside hash, drinks and chocolate. Prices sit well below the center.